2011年7月20日 星期三

寫在遊記之後:秘魯的行程規劃


秘魯的面積有台灣的35倍大,雖然這樣在南美洲並不能算是一個大國,但是
沒有人會否認秘魯擁有的觀光資源的確是南美洲最豐富的,從雨林到沙漠,
從高樓大廈到古文明,你所有能想像到的,這個國家幾乎都能滿足你。

除了跟團以外的旅友,建議大家還是要買一本旅遊工具書,除了最常見的
Lonely Planet以外我還要另外推薦一本Moon Guide:Peru,這本書帶我們走過
許多秘魯的大街小巷,資訊相當的新,比起Lonely planet以外算是更適合
情侶檔還有家庭旅遊(給的食宿建議較為高檔)。

我們不敢班門弄斧,但是還是想憑自己的經驗針對秘魯觀光資源最豐富的地方
給一些行程安排的建議,以下我們會寫些針對各個地區旅程還有天數上安排的
看法。

亞馬遜雨林 Amazon

秘魯的亞馬遜熱帶雨林相當的原始,在這邊你有機會體驗住在蠻荒之中的感覺。
建議要到雨林遊覽的朋友們至少安排個三天兩夜的行程,並且住在叢林深處
的Jungle Lodge,經驗豐富的導遊們一定會帶你到處尋找野生動物的蹤跡。
(天數越多越能深入叢林,見到野生動物的機會也會更高,我們是排四天三夜)
要提醒大家的是,無論想把雨林放在行程的頭或是尾,熱帶雨林的行程都是
非常消耗體力的,不適合鄰接著Inca Trail等等更加消耗體力的行程。

Cusco區域及馬丘比丘

Cusco大區域包含了Cusco古城,Sacred Valley聖谷以及馬丘比丘Machu Picchu。
這邊的景點可以說是印加文化的精華,也是許多旅人拜訪秘魯的原因。
Cusco建議至少留一天適應高度(如果由平地直飛進來),再加上一天做市區導覽
,Cusco附近的幾個景點也都值得你多流連幾天。

Sacred Valley的行程一般來說由Cusco出發,我建議可以在Sacred Valley
過個夜,此處有許多景致很好的精品旅館,放慢腳步享受旅程沒有什麼不好。

馬丘比丘Machu Picchu一般人都會搭乘火車進來,是不是要在馬丘比丘山腳下
的熱水鎮過夜則是取決於你(住宿費相對較高,且隔天入園要重新買票)
,但是無論如何,請記得在園區內留到下午三點以後,大批觀光客散去之後
的馬丘比丘真的是美到文筆無法形容。

的的喀喀湖 Lake Titikaka

的的喀喀湖是全世界最高的可行駛船隻的湖泊,在這邊主要就是要參觀浮島
以及幾個大島上的原住民。的的喀喀湖的導覽需要一整天的時間,所以至少
在湖畔的Puno需要住上兩天(第一天抵達,第二天導覽後住Puno)。
如果要在多呆幾天,可以考慮在島上民家做Home Stay(很多西方觀光客都有做)
另外無論是從Arequipa或是Cusco過來Puno,都需要消耗一整天的時間搭車,
但是一路上可以順便參觀景點,比起搭飛機也比較不會有高山症問題。

Lima首都利瑪

秘魯的首都利瑪治安不是很好,但是確有個非常美麗的市中心。個人認為一天
就足夠把利瑪的景點看的差不多,但是利瑪的美食確實是讓我想要多徘徊幾天:)

South Coast鳥島與納斯卡線

秘魯南邊的海岸上最主要的景點是鳥島還有神秘的納斯卡線。這邊同時是秘魯
有錢人海邊度假的區域,參觀鳥島可以順便在在Paracas度假一天,辛苦一點的
也可以趕車到Nazca去住(但是Nazca附近就沒什麼其他景點),也可以選擇從
Paracas的機場直接飛過去看Nasca線,機票比較貴但是可以省下來回五小時的
車程。必須要注意從利瑪到Paracas約需四個小時的車程,在安排上要注意時間。
此地還有Huacachina等沙漠綠洲等比較小的景點可以參觀。

Arequipa and Colca Canyon

(本圖片取自網路)我們這次沒有去的山城Arequipa,旅行社通常會在這邊安排停留一天參觀,另外在安排三天兩夜參觀Colca Canyon,不過因為我們沒有親自走過,沒有辦法給太多意見。

North Coast

(本圖片取自網路)秘魯北部海岸也有Chan Chan古墳等歷史遺跡還有海邊度假區,但是一般觀光客比較少來到這個區域,有興趣的朋友可能要看旅遊書多做點研究。

預算
玩南美洲一個最大的問題就是預算,吃跟住每個人的標準不同,從吃得很簡單
一餐大概5~10 sole(1 sole = 10 NT),到吃得很好一餐50 sole都有,住宿
也是從最簡單的背包民宿到超級奢華的旅館都有,怎麼選擇端看個人。
但是無論如何,最大筆的花費幾乎肯定都會是機票,在這邊提醒大家,千萬千萬
要即早訂票,越早開始注意機票就越有機會能夠買到划算的機票,而機票上的
價差隨隨便便都是兩三萬台幣,足夠你在秘魯整程吃香喝辣了。
(從我們開始看機票約五萬出頭,到提前兩個多月買了接近六萬的機票,到最後
出發前兩週想更改機票發現票價都已經超過八萬,就知道機票的波動多麼可怕)
秘魯國土遼闊,搭乘國內線不可避免,這部份的機票一樣是越早買越有利的。
整體來說,從台灣出發遊玩秘魯十五六天左右的行程,坊間旅行社開價大概
都是十六七萬全包,Semi-escorted tour的話大概十四五萬可以做到(包含所有
消費),自助的話十二萬應該可以做到,至於背包客的境界就不是小弟能理解的了。

寫了一大堆,還是希望讓大家對秘魯旅遊的景點有一些基礎的認識,在規劃上
也比較好決定該去那邊該待多久,也歡迎大家留言討論。




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